Billed as a
discussion on ale, gin, pubs, of London, its drinking culture &
its history, the Londonists 'London is Drinking' talk certainly did
not disappoint. At the wonderful Conway Hall, the evening was
comprised of drinks from some great London producers, including our
very own Wild Card Brewery. On the panel; beer
writer Pete Brown, gin historian Richard Barnett & beer sommelier
& author Melissa Cole.
The discussion
started with talk on why London in particular is famous for its Gin.
Richard explained 'King William III, otherwise known as William of
Orange, deregulated distillation in order to keep his throne.' A
troublesome time in Royal politics, William imposed a heavy duty on
imported spirits, including French Brandy. William, who would soon go
to war with the French, needed support from the English gentry.
Encouraging distillation, with English grain, on home turf, ensured
the support he needed.
Melissa stressed
'the importance of legislation; 'when taxation is favourable to an
industry it flourishes.' The small brewers tax relief is a vital
part of why microbreweries across the country are thriving.
London is very much
seen at the forefront of 'craft' brewing. Pete explained 'London
does not like being behind the curve.' Melissa continued, 'the
success of London breweries shows their creativity. There are
challenges to brewing in London you don't have elsewhere. Its
expensive, a fickle public & the difficulties in finding a
freehouse pub.'
The host of the
evening, the Londonist's Editor, Rachel Holdsworth, asked the panel,
'Pubs are traditionally seen as a working class environment, what do
you think of the encroachment of the middle classes?' Pete tackled
the question with an example, The Jolly Butchers in Stoke Newington.
'It used to be a fighting pub, where the Kronenbourg was sour and the
Guinness was flat. It was also losing about 2 grand a week.
Hipsters are now succeeding there.' Richard surmised, 'there is
nothing more middle class that sitting here talking about the middle
class. It's not pubs changing, it's London changing'.
Melissa added 'its
not necessarily gentrification, its also education, and I mean that
in the least patronising way!'
'The problem with
gentrification are those beers being sold for £6.50' – Pete. The
panel made an interesting point, most people know roughly the cost or
at least the off sale price of a bottle of beer, can the same be said
for a glass of wine in a restaurant? Pete continued, 'you
can have a pub packed out every night in London, but it will never be
worth as much as a block of flats.'
The panel we're then
asked 'what do you think about food in pubs?' Melissa replied simply,
'don't call it a pub if it's a fucking restaurant.'
On the subject of
Gin, Richard was asked how the demographic has changed? 'It has
become younger & urban. Gin has developed this mystique. A lot
of bars are trying to be like the old speakeasies. Gin is more
diverse than ever.'
A fascinating
evening, a knowledgeable panel, well posed questions and a wonderful
host. The conclusion; London is definitely still drinking.
